Europe
France
269 photographs · 52 venues
Photographs
Places worth going
All places →Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de MontmartreDon't missLandmarksBeautiful basilica, and if you don't go you're missing out! It sits at the top of Montmartre so you get all of Paris laid out from the steps, which is half the reason to climb up. Wander the streets behind it while you're there. Gets crowded though, so go early or late.BicheDon't missFood & drinkHad the grilled octopus, mashed potatoes, fries, the chateaubriand with pepper sauce, and a bourbon-vanilla crème brûlée. The octopus was the standout, properly charred and sitting on a red pepper sauce, and the steak was perfect. Most places are stingy with the sauce, but this came with loads of it and it was delicious. The room is lovely too: exposed brick, low pleated lamps and big white flower arrangements. Not cheap, but it's the Faubourg Saint-Honoré and it earns it. Amazing food, amazing wine and amazing vibe!BordeauxDon't missTownsOne of the coolest cities I've been to. So much variety of amazing food, all kinds of cuisines, and even the fast food is innovative! Small enough to comfortably walk around and the public transport is great. Worth wandering with no plan, though do make your way to Place de la Bourse and the Miroir d'Eau at some point, the whole facade reflected in the water is the shot everyone comes for. Really loved it!Bormes-les-MimosasDon't missTownsProper hilltop Provençal village: narrow lanes, flowers over everything, views down to the sea. Small enough to do in an hour, and worth stopping for if you're driving the coast.Bouillon PigalleDon't missFood & drinkHad the snails, the bone marrow and the beef bourguignon - went in wanting to try things I hadn't had before. Really glad I tried the bone marrow, and the snails in their garlic butter were better than I expected. The bourguignon was good without being amazing. Classic bouillon prices too, huge portions and paper tablecloths for not much money. If you don't book, turn up early or expect to queue down the boulevard. Will definitely be back to work through more of the menu!Cap FerretDon't missTownsThe whole peninsula is worth the drive from Bordeaux. Wooden oyster cabins painted in every colour, the dune on one side and the basin on the other. Go for lunch at one of the shacks and stay for the afternoon. Best oysters in Europe I think!CassisDon't missTownsGorgeous little port town and the natural base for the calanques. Park above and walk down; the boats for En-Vau and Port-Miou go from the harbour. Give it a full afternoon if you can.Château LauducDon't missWineGorgeous venue, with tables out on the grass right at the edge of the vines, about twenty minutes from Bordeaux. Amazing wines and great food, and you can sit there while the sun goes down over the rows. Evening is absolutely the right time for it. Will be back!Cité du VinDon't missWineAn immersive wine experience more than a museum! The building alone is worth seeing: it's meant to look like wine swirling in a glass. Your ticket includes a tasting up in the Belvédère at the top, which also gives you the best view over Bordeaux and the Garonne, and the pours aren't only Bordeaux either, I had a Corsican white and a Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Easily half a day, and you can't go to Bordeaux without coming here!CONNOR’S - Australian Sports BarDon't missFood & drinkGreat Aussie bar in Bordeaux and my default when I wanted an easy night, so I ended up going multiple times. The staff are brilliant, which is half of why I kept going back. Good selection on tap, and a soft landing if your French isn't up to much yet. Will be back again!Disneyland ParisDon't missActivitiesI went from opening to close, and did both parks, Disneyland and Walt Disney Studios. A full day, not a half, and you'll walk a very long way! Main Street first thing before the crowds build, the Studios in the afternoon, then back over for Hyperspace Mountain at dusk when the whole place lights up. It rained on and off all day and it honestly didn't matter, but take a jacket rather than an umbrella, your hands will thank you. Looong day but a great experience!Eiffel TowerDon't missLandmarksGo up, and time it for sunset. The very top was shut on my night because of high winds, so I only got one level up - and I took the stairs, which as someone scared of heights I did not love! Completely worth it though: the Champ de Mars straight below you, then the sky going orange and pink and the whole city switching its lights on. I came back to see it from Trocadéro and Bir-Hakeim too, and it's different every time.Giens PeninsulaDon't missOutdoorsThe drive out to Giens is lovely on its own, salt flats one side, sea the other. It's also where the Porquerolles boats go from, so you'll probably end up here anyway. Windy, always!Guinguette BikainaDon't missFood & drinkGorgeous place. A proper Basque guinguette right on the water, with tables under the trees looking over the river. Amazing range of food and drinks, and a lovely spot as the light goes. Will be back!La baraque à huitresDon't missFood & drinkHad the oysters, prawns, bread with salted butter and a couple of pâtés, with white wine. Great wine, great oysters - honestly on par with NZ oysters, some of the best in the world! It's right in among the oyster huts with the water at the end of the lane and the beds out in the bassin in front of you, which is a big part of why it's so good. Will be back.La cabane dans les vignesDon't missWineHad the Château de Fontenille, Les Demoiselles, the "Je suis Gris", a charcuterie board and a cheese plate. Gorgeous place, worth the drive! Great food, great wine, and a great way to end the trip. Would go back.Le PanierDon't missTownsBest hour on foot in Marseille! It's the old quarter above the Vieux-Port, all steep lanes, pastel walls and pale blue shutters, with washing hanging out of the windows. It gets quiet as soon as you climb away from the main drag.Le Train de La RhuneDon't missJourneysAbsolutely recommend taking the little wooden rack train up La Rhune, a unique experience not far from the Spanish border. It's been running since the 1920s and grinds up at walking pace for about half an hour, with ponies and sheep wandering across the track. The ride is spectacular and the view from the top is gorgeous: the whole Basque coast laid out below you, Saint-Jean-de-Luz and Biarritz and the beaches running north into the haze. Go for the view, and stay for it. Take water and snacks: the café at the top won't refill your bottle and it's pricey.Les Chantiers de la GaronneDon't missFood & drinkSand underfoot, low crate tables and rope swings hanging from the plane trees, right on the bank of the Garonne. Lovely for a late afternoon drink and a snack; I had oysters and wine and it was super. Would go back.Les Drôles BORDEAUXDon't missFood & drinkHad the foie gras with cannelé toasts and onion compote, then grilled meat with baby potatoes. One 27€ menu, all made in house, and one of the best value meals I had! The foie gras with cannelé is such a Bordeaux idea and it really works. Small room on rue Saint-Rémi so book.Les Halles BacalanDon't missFood & drinkCovered food hall directly across from the Cité du Vin, so pair the two: do the museum, then come here to eat. Around twenty stalls under one roof, with oysters from the basin, charcuterie, cheese, Basque food, and wine by the glass from people who know it. You order from whichever counter you like and sit at the shared tables in the middle, which is the best bit, because you end up eating a bit of everything instead of committing to one menu. Busy and loud in a good way.Notre-Dame Cathedral of ParisDon't missLandmarksI didn't go inside this time, but it's magnificent from the outside - the west front, the rose window and all that carving over the doors. I did go in back in 2007 and it's absolutely worth it, so make time if you can: it's free now it's reopened, but book a slot ahead or you'll be queueing for an hour.Notre-Dame de la GardeDon't missLandmarksGo for the view. The whole city is laid out below you, with the Frioul islands and the Château d'If out in the bay and the coast running off both ways. I didn't go inside the basilica, didn't need to. Fair warning: I drove up and it's a set of very narrow, very steep switchbacks, so take the bus if you'd rather not deal with that.Old Port of MarseilleDon't missTownsThe heart of Marseille and where everything else runs off from. Masts and superyachts side by side, the fish market at the top end in the morning, and the whole thing glitters in the afternoon light. Walk the full length of it at least once; you'll end up back here anyway.Parc national des CalanquesDon't missOutdoorsI chose not to hike it and took a boat trip instead. Seeing five or six calanques for not much money was so worth it! From the water you get the full height of the white cliffs with the pines somehow growing straight out of them, and right at the head of En-Vau there's a little beach you can see the swimmers on. If you do the walk, pack plenty of water and food, because there's nothing but nature when you get there.Passion Med - Catamaran Var - Excursion et privatisation bateau vers PorquerollesDon't missActivitiesBest day of the Provence leg! Half a day out of Giens on the catamaran, anchoring off Porquerolles to swim and snorkel, and the crew were great company. You see the island from the water rather than going ashore, which honestly was the better way to do it - would absolutely do it again.PEPPE PIZZERIA Etienne MarcelDon't missFood & drinkHad the burrata with pesto, the focaccia and a pizza with ricotta, slow-roasted datterini tomatoes, aubergine and basil. Neapolitan done properly, with the puffed, blistered crust to prove it, and the burrata was so much better than it needed to be! There's usually a queue out onto Étienne Marcel but it moves quickly, so join it, or book!Pont de Bir-HakeimDon't missLandmarksBest view of the Eiffel Tower in Paris and hardly anyone on it compared to the Trocadéro. Go at golden hour and walk the middle deck between the pillars.PorquerollesDon't missOutdoorsI saw it from the water rather than landing, out on the catamaran with Passion Med, anchored off the beaches to swim. Even from the boat it's stunning: pine right down to the sand, and water that really is that colour. Worth knowing the boat timetables are awkward if you want to go ashore. The last one back leaves before sunset, so for an evening there you'd need to stay the night.Restaurant La CabaneDon't missFood & drinkHad the razor clams in parsley butter with a chorizo crumb, the linguine in truffle cream with burrata and a parmesan crumble, and the fillet of sea bream in an aioli crust with crushed potatoes, with a rosé. The razor clams with chorizo were excellent, the linguine was the one I kept going back to - truffle cream, a whole burrata melting into it, the crumble for crunch - and the dorade under an aioli crust was better than it sounds. Outside tables, rosé, right by the water - exactly what you want in Hyères.ROCKWOOD - Good place & good tasteDon't missFood & drinkRight on the quay by the Quinconces, so it is an easy one to fall into after walking the riverfront. Grab a table outside and watch the trams go past. Good spot to end up rather than plan for!Rôtisserie Poulettes Fernand LafargueDon't missFood & drinkHad the crispy chicken, the wrap and the Caesar salad across a few visits, because I kept going back. The gratin dauphinois is the side to order, and whatever is in their curry sauce, it is amazing. Quick, cheap and a good lunch stop on Place Fernand Lafargue. Will be back!Saint-ÉmilionDon't missTownsWell worth the drive out from Bordeaux for an afternoon. Steep little limestone village and honestly gorgeous. If you see one thing, make it the church carved into the rock. Do a tasting while you're there too, mine was down in a cellar cut into the limestone under the village, which beats a tasting room every time. Go on a weekday if you can, the lanes fill up fast with tour groups.Saint-Jean-de-LuzDon't missTownsA working fishing port with one of the best sheltered beaches on this coast inside its sea walls, and a town behind it that still looks Basque rather than built for tourists: red-shuttered hotels, timber balconies, and the church where Louis XIV was married a street back from the front. Come down off La Rhune in the afternoon, walk the Grande Plage at low tide, and eat on the harbour.TA SushiDon't missFood & drinkHad the salmon nigiri, the avocado maki, salmon and cream cheese rolls under a crisp onion crumb, and a donburi with salmon and a whole fanned avocado over the rice, with pickled cabbage and cucumber alongside. Everything came out fresh and the boards kept arriving - far more food than I expected, and great value with it.
It is tucked in the lanes behind Forum des Halles, so it is easy to get to and a great stop in the middle of a day walking the city. Would go back!Arc de TriompheWorth a stopLandmarksI only looked from the outside this time, and it's worth it for that alone. Much bigger up close than you expect, and the carving around the base is extraordinary. I went up back in 2007 and it was amazing: the twelve avenues spreading out from it is the best way to understand how Paris is put together, so go up if you have time. Use the underpass, and do not try to cross the roundabout!Canal Saint MartinWorth a stopOutdoorsIf it's on the way, have a look - the green iron footbridges and the lock gates are pretty enough. Nothing spectacular though, and maybe the grey weather didn't help. I wouldn't make a detour for it.Castle of Châteauneuf-du-PapeWorth a stopLandmarksI went purely for the name! It's the ruin of the popes' summer castle and there's not much left of it, but you're up above the vineyards with the Rhône valley spread out below, and on a clear day you can see for miles. Really nice if you like a good red. If it's on the way, definitely stop by.Château Grand MayneWorth a stopWineDefinitely do the tasting. You get walked through the barrel cellar with the barrels stacked up, then sit out in the garden with a glass - there's a swing under the trees, which is a lovely way to drink Saint-Émilion. Grab a bottle on the way out, it's cheaper here than in town.ETABLISSEMENTS GALHAUDWorth a stopWineThe tasting is down in the limestone cellars carved under the village, which is half the point. Cool, quiet and candle-lit, and you sit at a table down there with the bottles. Lovely people and good wine. Do this instead of tasting in a shop at street level!Fort de SocoaWorth a stopLandmarksThe old fort sits out on its own breakwater at the western end of the bay, with a small curve of sand beside it and La Rhune standing up behind the town. Ten minutes on the way is all it needs: walk out along the wall, look back at Saint-Jean-de-Luz across the water, and carry on.Jardin Botanique de BordeauxWorth a stopOutdoorsLovely quiet spot on the right bank and a nice change of pace from the city. Proper tall palms, glasshouses, and plenty of shade. Good for half an hour after walking over the Pont de Pierre, and it's free.Le Michel'sWorth a stopFood & drinkHad the steak and fries and the onion soup. Best French onion soup I've ever had, even if I wasn't sure how to eat it at first! Nice steak, great vibe.Le MolinaWorth a stopFood & drinkHad the frogs' legs, the râpées and a green salad. I don't know if this is ever on the way, it's out at La Talaudière just outside Saint-Étienne, but what a place! Amazing vibe, lovely team and great food. The râpées are the local speciality so have them here, and the plates are generous. Grab a table outside if the weather is good. First time eating frogs and I thoroughly enjoyed it!Marché municipal du Cap FerretWorth a stopFood & drinkProper oyster market. Crates of Spéciales and Traditions straight off the basin, sold by the dozen with lemons and a knife for a few euros, and a counter where you can just stand and eat them. There's a Basque pintxos stall too, ham and padrón peppers on bread, if oysters at ten in the morning is a step too far. Go in the morning while it's all still out.MarseilleWorth a stopTownsRougher round the edges than the rest of the south and much more interesting for it! Give it a couple of days rather than a stop. The Vieux-Port, Le Panier and Notre-Dame de la Garde are the obvious three, and the calanques start where the city ends. Driving here is insane though: narrow streets, scooters everywhere and nobody indicating. Park it and walk, or use the metro.OLALA BORDEAUX - Wine tours & tastingsWorth a stopWineAn hour with a sommelier and three Bordeaux - a dry white, a red and a sweet - each paired with something local: sturgeon rillettes with caviar, cured duck, a farmhouse blue. 35€ and I learned more about Bordeaux wine here than anywhere else! Do it early in your stay so the rest of the week makes more sense.Place de la VictoireWorth a stopTownsThe Porte d'Aquitaine on one side and a tram stop on the other, so you'll pass through here plenty. It's one of the main junctions in the city. Ringed with bars and it gets going in the evening with the student crowd. Handy base as well as a good spot in its own right.Place des QuinconcesWorth a stopLandmarksOne of the biggest squares in Europe and the Monument aux Girondins at the end of it is genuinely impressive. This is also where the markets and the funfair set up, so it's worth a look to see what's on.Rue Sainte-CatherineWorth a stopTownsThe longest pedestrian street in Europe and the spine of the city. I ended up walking it on many different days. The shops are the shops, but look up: it's all honey-coloured stone, wrought-iron balconies and bunting strung across the street. Good for getting your bearings, and the lanes either side are where the best of Bordeaux is hiding.The Grizzly PubWorth a stopFood & drinkA pub on Place de la Victoire, which is the student end of town and a good square to sit on. I had a cheap AND delicious mojito on the terrace in the rain and watched the buses go round; nothing about the pub itself you would cross the city for, but if you are at the Victoire it does the job.V.I.Pizz HyèresWorth a stopFood & drinkHad a pizza, the chicken Caesar and a bowl of hand-cut fries. The pizza was amazing, and the Caesar was really good too - proper chips and a good sized salad. Exactly what you want on a night you don't feel like going out. Handy if you're staying nearby in Hyères.