Les Halles Bacalan

Covered food hall directly across from the Cité du Vin, so pair the two: do the museum, then come here to eat. Around twenty stalls under one roof, with oysters from the basin, charcuterie, cheese, Basque food, and wine by the glass from people who know it. You order from whichever counter you like and sit at the shared tables in the middle, which is the best bit, because you end up eating a bit of everything instead of committing to one menu. Busy and loud in a good way.