Gulmarg

A green bowl of meadow at 2,650 metres with pine forest round it, and on paper the best thing in Kashmir. In person it is run down: litter in the grass, half-built and half-abandoned huts, the place looking like nobody has cared for it in a long while. The drive up through the forest and the goats on the road were the good part. Hard to recommend the hour it takes to get there.