Cologne

I got up high on the far bank for the view back over the river, and it's the one that sticks: the Dom's two black spires in the middle of everything, the Hohenzollern bridge crossing the Rhine below and the arched station roof tucked in beside it. Cologne is a rebuilt city and doesn't pretend otherwise, which I liked. Cross the bridge on foot through the love locks, then go and drink Kölsch properly in a brauhaus, where it comes in little 200ml glasses and the waiter keeps replacing it until you put the mat on top.