Kaiser-Franz-Josefs-Höhe

Drive all the way to the end of the road for this. You look straight down onto the Pasterze, Austria's longest glacier, and its meltwater lake, a pale grey-green, with waterfalls coming off the rock walls opposite. What stays with you is how far the ice has pulled back - there's bare rock and outwash everywhere it used to sit, and markers on the path showing where the glacier reached in living memory. Sobering, and worth seeing while it's still there.