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São Paulo
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All places →Mercado Municipal de São PauloDon't missFood & drinkGo for the mortadella sandwich and do not pretend you are there for anything else. It is a genuinely stupid amount of meat in a bread roll, you will not want dinner, and it is famous for a reason. Eat it standing up at the counter upstairs where everyone else is, and get a pastel de bacalhau too if you can still move afterwards.São PauloDon't missTownsThe thing nobody prepares you for is the scale. From a window on the western side at night it is houses and streetlights to the horizon in every direction, and it keeps going long after you expect it to stop - and that is a suburb, not the middle. Flying out is the same story from above: you are over it for ages. It is not a beautiful city and it is not trying to be, but it is the one with the food, the markets and the best night out in the country, and I would rather have a few days here than an afternoon on the way somewhere else. Stay somewhere central for the walking, and go up something tall on a clear evening.Catedral da SéWorth a stopLandmarksEnormous, neo-Gothic, with the palms lined up in front of it and the square always full of people. Ten minutes is enough unless you go inside, and you should - it is a lot cooler and a lot quieter in there than the front steps suggest. Worth folding into a morning in the centre rather than going out of your way for.